Lee Liquid Alox

My Thirty Years With "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner... Home-Mix Really Works

By C.E. "Ed" Harris - Updated 2/20/2021.

Thirty years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner. It has passed the test of time. Thousands of

satisfied users think this home-mixed cleaner is every bit as effective as more expensive commercial products.

I urge you to try some, either mixing your own or buy it pre-mixed from Brownell’s and give it a fair trial, compared

to whatever you have been using. Competitive shooters, gun clubs and police departments who use a gallon or more

of rifle bore cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and will give up little or nothing in safety or effectiveness.

The design intent of “ER” was to provide cleaning action similar to Vietnam-era military rifle bore cleaner, Mil-C-372B.

When the optional acetone is included ER is more effective than Hoppe's for removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores,

or heavily-caked carbon fouling in semi-automatic rifles or pistols. User have reported it as effective as Kano Kroil as a

penetrant for loosening rusted bolts, engine parts and in removing leading in revolvers. It is not as effective as

Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest Nine or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of copper fouling in rifle bores, because ER

does not chemically attack copper. Instead "ER" is more effective in removing caked carbon and abrasive primer

residues than other cleaners, so that metal fouling is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.

When I originally came up with this mix I was an active high power rifle, bullseye pistol shooter and hand loading

experimenter who used a lot of bore cleaner and was not satisfied with the spotty performance and high cost of the

commonly available commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner

couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. Out well-proven result over decades of experience is

that “ER” is less expensive, every bit as effective, providing excellent corrosion protection and fully adequate residual

lubrication so that routine "oiling" after cleaning is unnecessary, except for long-term storage of over 1 year, or harsh

service, such as humid tropical environments or salt water exposure.

The “ER” formula was based upon proven principles, incorporating two polar and two nonpolar solvents. It was

adapted from the recipe published in Hatcher's Notebook for "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," substituting readily

available modern materials. An organic chemist assisted me in its development ensured that there would be no

"surprises." Hatcher’s formula called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and

optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin being added per liter. Brief discussion of the ingredients is helpful to

understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works.

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today I recommend "K1" kerosene of the

type normally sold for use in indoor space heaters. Users have reported successful substitution of civilian aviation

grade kerosene such as Turbo-A. While military users have reported successful substitution of current JP-8 turbine

fuel, I hesitate to recommend it pending further research, because the effects upon firearm components of the various

additives required of military aviation fuels are unknown. Some older Vietnam-era "jet- fuels" still common in some

parts of the world were avgas/kerosene blends and must not be used, because of their increased flammability.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that

most ATF's were sperm oil based, but during WWII synthetics were developed for use in precision instruments. With

the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in

the quantity demanded, so the synthetic materials became the basis for our Dexron fluids we know today.

[The original Dexron (B) transmission fluid was introduced on April 1, 1967. Over the years, the original Dexron (B)

was supplanted by Dexron-II(C), Dexron-II(D), Dexron-II(E), Dexron-III(F), Dexron-III(G), Dexron-

III(H), Dexron-VI(J), Dexron HP, Dexron LV ATF HP, and Dexron ULV which is the latest fluid]

The additives in ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for inclusion

in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative. Experience has proven that any major name-brand ATF whether

Dexron, Mercon, Mopar, etc., are all fine in ER. If you have old Ford-Mercon in the garage back from the days you

owned that Ford Galaxy Police Interceptor which would pass anything on the road except a gas station, mixing ER is

the best way to repurpose it, instead of taking to household hazardous waste disposal.

Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of turpentine. Real gum turpentine is expensive

today, and is an "aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, so I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic

mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and widely used as charcoal

lighter, and as automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard

Solvent" or "Varsol".

Acetone was included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked powder residues. Because

acetone is an aromatic, organic solvent, it is recommended that users leave it out if the cleaner will be used in

enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. This is because the acetone in ER will readily evaporate, liberating

volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly closed when not in use.

ER is still effective without the acetone, but it is not as "fast-acting," so you will have to be patient.

It is true that there isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper fouling in rifle bores. However,

because it does a better job removing caked on carbon and abrasive primer residue than anything else, which is safe

and commonly available, decades of use have substantiated that exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits,

because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is left by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion and

adhesion of jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent fouling.

Experience indicates that "ER" will reduce the adhesion of remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," once the

surfactants will their the job, deposits are more easily brushed out.

Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. Today it is increasing difficult to find anhydrous

lanolin. A clever boy can substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, USP from the drug store, heating it over a

double boiler and gradually driving off the excess moisture. Farm boys tell me that Bag Balm can be minimally

processed and used in the same way. ER still gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication for most users

without the lanolin. However, incorporating the lanolin makes it easier on the hands, displaces water better, increases

its lubricity and film strength, and improves corrosion protection for long term storage or when firearms will be

routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or polluted urban corrosive atmospheres.

If you use other protective films for adverse exposures or long term storage you can leave the lanolin out and save

about $10 per gallon. At current retail prices [unless you live in California, I am told…] you can buy all the ingredients

to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $25 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as

well for you as it does for hundreds of users who got the "recipe" thirty years ago on the old Fidonet Firearms Echo.

I feel obligated to say that in the years since Ed’s Red was introduced, others have advocated substituting other

materials such as MEK or other hazardous, cancer-causing solvents, or Marvel Mystery Oil, which does have a

pleasant smell, but is more expensive than Dexron and offers has no real technical advantage.

So I am going on record here that Ed does not recommend ANY substitutions. Please stick to the proven recipe.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later. Older Ford Mercon and Mopar also OK.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1, also OK to substitute Jet-A

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS

#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or

equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1. (Optional)

(Also optional) 200 g per Liter or up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to

substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

                  MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC

plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use

HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also

attack HDPE, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly

rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking

precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container

with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.

I highly recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for

optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the

remaining mix.

LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE

HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician

immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with

water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.

It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner

inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and

prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and

nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced

air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or

equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the

barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale

on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first

patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the

throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle.

Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "milsurps" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush

wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,

target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's

Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,

leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years.

For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will

readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue

and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch

wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by

Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

8. After firing black powder, Pyrodex or military chlorate primers wet patching with hot water is

recommended initially to dissolve potassium chlorate salts and to break up black powder fouling deposits.

The water cleaning should be immediately followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-

rusting which could result from residual moisture.

Recommended practice is to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using black powder or chlorate

primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that

it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings

included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author. In Home Mix We Trust.

Regards, Ed